Indian handlooms are
known for their richness, exquisiteness, variety and fine quality. They are an
integral part of Indian culture and no festival or occasion is complete without
them. The passage of time has brought about a change in the weaves, patterns
and designs boasting of glamor, magnificence and exquisiteness but the
importance of handlooms still remains the same.
Indian weavers blend myths, faiths, symbols and
imagination to bring an appealing dynamism to the fabric. It is the distinct
form of art, weave and color usage of the artisan that give every region its
distinctive identity and uniqueness. Today varieties are created using
contemporary fiber, modern designs and new techniques of weaving.
Popular weaves of India
Andhra Pradesh
Andhra
Pradesh is renowned for its handloom. It produces the most exclusive saris and
dress-materials, having delicate and distinctive designs. Each sari boasts of
an intricate pallu and a delicate border adornd with gold thread work. The
looms of Pochampalli, Venkatagiri, Gadwal, Narayanpet, Dharmavaram, Uppadas are
well-known for their silk and cotton saris all over India. Mangalgiri cottons
and Kalmkari prints are the other varieties of the state. Usually, both the loom
and the fabric are known by the name of the place.
Bihar
Bihar is known for Tussar silk which is a non-mulberry
silk variety and handwoven cotton Mulmuls. The weaver community developed high
level of silk in tussar silk spinning to give unique low-twist tussar silk
yarns which helped create the characteristics tussar textured silk fabrics that
are unique. The Mulmuls of Madhubani, like the paintings, are still a craze
amongst lovers of fine cotton fabrics.
Chhattisgarh
The ‘Kosa’ of Chhattisgarh is a type of tussar.
It comes in varied weave patterns that are block printed, painted or
embroidered, the sturdy kosa yarn called giccha is coarse and is more durable.
The silk is is valued for its purity and texture. Kosa Silk is drawn from
cocoons especially grown on Arjun, Saja or Sal trees. Available naturally in
shades of gold-pale, dark, honey, tawny, baccoto beige, creamy, etc.
Gujarat
Gujarat is famous for its Patola print. This is a
tie and dye technique which requires intricate weaving thereby making it
expensive and exclusive. They are known for their flaming vibrant colors and
geomatric designs interspersed with folk motifs. Gujarat handlooms are also
well known for the block prints using vegetable dyes and the famous Kutch
embroidery.
Jammu and Kashmir
Jammu and Kashmir is popular for its printed pure
silk, crepe and chiffon saris, kashida embroidered dresses, the pashmina shawls
with delicate hand embroidery. The tweeds and embroideries are so unique that
it is a pride to be in possession of them. The elegant color and bold
embroidery make them very popular among every age group.
Karnataka
Karnataka is the home of mulberry silk. The
Mysore silk saris with pure zari borders are the dream possessions of every
woman in India. The printed silk, silk saris with kasuti embroidery, the
belgaum saris are the other famous varieties available in the state.
Madhya Pradesh
Madhya Pradesh is the home of delicate Chanderi
Silk and Maheshwari sarees. Soft, subtle shades in delicate weaves come off the
looms in Chanderi. Here, silk is used as the wrap and cotton for the weft to
produce the famous Chanderi saris. The Maheshwari craftsmen have perfected the
art of weaving a wide variety of checks and designs.
Maharashtra
Maharashtra is known for its rich and exquisite
Paithani brocades that are the prized heirlooms and possessions for many even
today. They come in Kum-kum colors with contrasting borders with gold coin or
dot motifs. The Vidarbha Karvati sari in kosa silk is famous for its texture
and pattern with temple design borders which are unique and elegant.
Orissa
Orissa is famous for its sambalpuri and Bomkai
handlooms. Sambalpuri ikat is a double tie and dye art where intricate designs
based on mythology are created by the tie and dye technique in both silk and
mercerized cotton. The bomkari is the other special variety where border
designs are based on mythology with animal and floral patterns. Due to the
richness in fabric used, these handlooms are priced higher and look more
elegant with time.
Rajasthan
Rajasthan is very famous for the bandhani or
bandhej which is also a tie and dye technique. The leheriya is a special
variety of tie and die where diagonal stripes are created in cotton, silk,
crepe, chiffon and kota doria fabrics. It is also famous for its sanganeri
block, Dabu and bagru prints. Gota, zardosi and zari are used for bridal and
formal ensembles. The patch work especially in home furnishing is gaining
popularity.
Tamil Nadu
The Chettinads and Coimbatore cottons are famous
of Tamil Nadu. They come in stripes and checks with traditional borders which
appear rich and aristocratic.
Uttar Pradesh
The Lucknow chickan embroidery is very famous of
Uttar Pradesh. Delicately designed and embroidered on cottons, crepes and
chiffon, they are usually available in pastel colors and reflect elegance.
West Bengal
The Baluchari and Kantha work saris in cotton and
silk of West Bengal are of great attraction. The Balucharis reflect the rustic
culture of our villages while the Kantha embroidery exhibits the creativity of
our artisans. It is an exotic form of embroidery in which the eye, emotion and
skills are combined into one. The Dacaai’s Tangails and Batiks are the popular
cottons of the state.
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